Climbing Ilinizas

North (5125 mt) or South (5250 mt)

The Iliniza and Corazón volcanoes are located about 40 km south-southwest from  Quito,  near by  Machachi village  . Corazón is a perfect place to get acclimatization and scope excellent views of central valleys and neighbor peaks. Iliniza South peak has the distinction of being the sixth highest elevation (5250 mt), while Iliniza North the eighth one (5125 mt).

According to geologists, in a certain era, there was only one volcano which exploited and collapsed, transforming this huge volcano into two peaks separated by a saddle. In fact, while climbing either one, you will observe at the bottom of the old caldera the remaining green-blue lake.

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Climbing Iliniza North Peak

Iliniza North is a rocky peak and is very seldom covered with snow. Its normal route does not present any big technical problem for trekkers, soft climbers, or people seeking for acclimatization, Both, Iliniza North and South offers some of the most enjoyable climbs and views.

The North Peak is specially recommended for people who are training and seeking for acclimatization before attempting major peaks. Because of the poor services of the “Nuevos Horizontes” hut, (3740 mt) we prefer staying overnight in  local Haciendas located in the valleys below, having comfort , great local food and better rest for the next long hike in te Andes

 

Climbing tour Summary

Day 1 –  Quito, Machachi. El Chaupi , Corazón volcano

Departure from Quito in south direction towards Machachi village and afterwards to El Chaupi and Corazón volcano cheking point . Acclimatization hike in the “Paramo” towards Corazon Summit , back to a private Hacienda in Chaupi Village  for overnight and dinner.

Day 2 – Iliniza North Summit

Early breakfast and transfer to the parking place “La Virgen” (4,000 mt). Hiking  to the top (5125 mt) via Nuevos Horizontes Hut and the settle, back to the parking lot via the sandy screed slopes. Transfer to Quito via Machachi.

Ice Climbing South Iliniza  (5250mt.)

Iliniza South is reserved for those who have good skills on ice climbing. Because of the glacier recession, its normal route has become more and more  technical , so front point skills are mandatory. Therefore it is not recommended for beginners. This peak has the reputation of being an Alpine climb.

Day 1 – Quito, Machachi , El Chaupi, Ilinza Hut

Depart from Quito in South direction towards Machachi, and  El Chaupi village and parking place “La Virgen” at 4000mt. Approach to the hut (4740 mt), overnight and diner.

Day 2 – Iliniza South Summit

Early wake up and breakfast. Approach to the glacier  edge and climbing to the mountain top, following  by the normal route (northeast face). Return to the hut and parking lot – Drive back Quito via Machachi